Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum)


Food  |  Habitat  |  Health  |   Genetics  |  FAQ

Literally, the name "Axolotl" means "water dog,", in Nahuatl, the language of the ancient Aztecs, although it can apparently be translated a number of ways. "Water sprite" and "water player" are just a couple. The axolotl takes its name from Xolotl, the rather diverse Aztec god of games, monstrosities, and the dead and resurrected. Axolotls come in many colour varieties. Grey, tan, brown, white, golden albino, white albino, blue, as well as other varieties, such as the black melanoid. The normally coloured or "wild type" can come in anything from near-black, to chocolate brown, to almost cream in colour and anything in between. There are even "piebald" axolotls known as "harlequins". Prior to the growth of Mexico city in the basin of Mexico, the Axolotl was native to both Lake Xochimilco, and Lake Chalco. Of these two high altitude freshwater lakes, only the remnants of Xochimilco as canals can be seen today.

The Axolotl is a fascinating creature for a number of reasons, including its grotesque appearance, its ability to regenerate, and primarily the fact that it exhibits the phenomenon known as neoteny. Ordinarily, amphibians undergo metamorphosis from egg to larva, and finally to adult form. The axolotl, along with a number of other amphibians, remains in its larval form, meaning that it retains its gills and fins, and doesn't develop the protruding eyes, eyelids and characteristics of other adult salamanders. It grows much larger than a normal larval salamander, and reaches sexual maturity in this larval stage. Another term to describe this state is "perennibranchiate". It is completely aquatic, and although it does possess rudimentary lungs, it breathes primarily through its gills and to a lesser extent, its skin. It is generally accepted that neoteny is a "backward" step in evolution, because the axolotl is descended from what were once terrestrial salamanders like the closely related species, the Tiger salamander, Ambystoma tigrinum (in fact, one theory suggests that the Axolotl is in fact a Tiger salamander off-shoot, as it can interbreed with that species quite successfully). Through some quirk of nature, a neotenous form developed and, probably due to environmental conditions, prospered. Neoteny is sometimes found in other amphibians, but tends to be caused by low levels of iodine (an essential element in the making of thyroxine hormones, essential to growth and development), or random genetic mutation. In the axolotl the condition is totally genetic. When treated with hormones, the axolotl will usually begin to metamorphose, but in very rare cases it will metamorphose spontaneously.

How long do they live?

The average lifespan seems to be ten to fifteen years, although there was at least one that reportedly lived twenty-five years in a French laboratory.

Axolotl Food

How Do They Find Their Food?

Axolotls find there food by smell and by their lateral line organs, which are sensory organs located along the sides of their head and trunk. Axolotls have weak eyesight and they do not seem to be used for finding food. Their lateral line organs detect motion and pressure. When food is dropped from the top, they use their lateral line organs and sense of smell to located the food. If they happen to miss it, they will usually use their nose to find food on the bottom of the tank. Non-live food should be siphoned or netted out at the end of each day as not to spoil the water. It is important to note that axolotls will eat or try to eat anything that is put in front of their faces.

Juveniles should be fed every day with Artemia and adults every other day with fish pellets, guppies, worms, or whatever you choose. Adults can survive on once to thrice a week feedings. Some axolotls have different metabolisms and might not eat for months and survive and even not exhibit any weight loss. Before you feed your axolotl, make sure it's awake by lightly tapping its container or turning on the lights or something that will solicit a reaction.

Food

Overfeeding is not a known problem with axolotls, but make sure you clean-up any uneaten food immediately. I mainly feed my axolotls frozen bloodworms, worms or soft ground pellets made of fish. They are very odoriferous and soft so they can sense them easily. They are soft and sinkable, which are the key elements. When the food falls near them they open their mouth and sucks the food in. They grip the food with their tiny teeth while they bolt the food into their mouths. They can be trained to be fed in a certain area for easy cleanup.

Axolotls love tubifex worms, they are a special treat you should offer them occassionally. I would not put the worms in a tank with gravel or rocks, since they tend to hide between them. You can also transfer your axolotl to a clean container for feeding. Axolotls show no mercy when they sense live food, be it a guppy or a worm. Brine shrimp are good for juvenile axolotls, but tend to be messy and foul up the water since they are raised in salt-water. They only last a few hours in a fresh water tank, so take heed if you use them. Goldfish are harder for the axolotls to catch than a guppy.

When You Are Away

Guppies are perhaps the best companions and food source for the axolotls. They will not attack the axolotl, and they usually stay in the upper water column. The axolotls will either float to the top and wait for them, or they will patiently wait for the guppies to swim on by. They are an excellent way to feed your axolotl if you go on vacation and cannot feed them fish pellets.

Problems With Live Food

When you buy live food at a pet shop, you can sometimes get more than you bargained for. fungal infections and bacterial infections can sometimes be passed on to axolotls from the tubifex worms, goldfish, and guppies that have been purchased from pet shops. I would recommend that tubifex worms be thoroughly rinsed and kept in a holding tank for a few days before given to the ajolotes.

AXOLOTL HABITAT

Tank Setup

At a minimum, one juvenile axolotl will do fine in a 20 litre tank. The carrying capacity for a standard 40 litre tank would be three adults. The height of the standard fish tank is overkill for axolotl keeping. Therefore, keep the water level at 60-70% volume. Axolotls naturally come from a series of Snow-melt fed lakes southeast of Mexico City. So a tank kept at room temperture is fine, the problem is sometimes keeping the tank cool enough for them. Keeping the water cool is a main priority. Axolotls in their native habitat live in temperatures of 15-20ºC with a pH between 7.4-8.2.

The recommended temperature for keeping an axolotl is from 14-18ºC. Since the axolotl is a cold-blooded animal, its metabolic rate is proportional to its body temperature. When the water is unusually cool, it may take an extra long time for the axolotl to digest its food. If it takes too long, the food in the axolotl's stomach may begin to spoil before it's fully processed. To avoid this sort of poisoning, the axolotl will regurgitate its food at the first indication that spoiling may occur. If your axolotl spits his food back up, first make sure that what you're feeding it is fresh. Next, check the water temperature and make sure it's not too cold.

Artificially Induced Metamorphosis

Laboratory experiments have been done to see whether axolotls use metamorphosis to deal with environmental change. Axolotls that have the genes to undergo metamorphosis can be readily do so with an injection of T4 thyroxin. Thyroxin is a hormone that causes maturation in most vertebrates. Forcing natural metamorphosis by reproducing drought conditions, increasing salinity, et cetera, have been largely unsuccessful. For some axolotls, thyroid metamorphosis is impossible. Other axolotls, who have the capability to transform, can do so in under a month by being immersed in solution of triiodothronine (T3). Other methods included the introduction of thyroxine (T4) or thyrotropin hormones (TSH) into the axolotl.

Precautions

If you use a filter, make sure that the intake tube is hidden behind rocks or somewhere their gills will not get sucked into. Most people use gravel on the bottom of their tanks. This is not recommend, because they have a tendency to swallow the gravel during feeding sessions. If you must use river rocks (2.5cm - 4 cm in diameter). They are very smooth, and the axolotls use them to rest or stand up upon.

If you want to have your axolotl share the same tank with other fish or snails - DON'T. Don't give in to the temptation. There are many reasons:
  • Axolotl gills are incredibly tempting bait to fish and other water-dwellers. The gills are very fragile and sensitive- even a little nibbling could be harmful.
  • Snails can be very harmful to an axolotl. Snails can overcome an axolotl when it goes to sleep and suck away its flesh, leaving severe wounds if not killing it.
  • Axolotls have a big mouth, and if a fish or anything else comes too close, it will be sucked into the axolotl's mouth and eaten.
Accordingly, it is recommended that you only keep an axolotls in an aquarium with other axolotls.

Lighting and Cover

Axolotls are more mostly nocturnal; they do not like a lot of sunlight, and should have a place to hide when it gets too bright. For baby axolotls, cover the top of the tank with a dense array of plastic plants, without the base. This allows the plants to bunch up and form a network on the upper water column. The young axolotls float up to the plants, and stay in the protective cover until it is feeding time.

AXOLOTL HEALTH

Anatomy

Axolotls typically have about 50 vertebrae. The tail region accounts for 70% of them. Here is a diagram of an axolotl skeleton, side view. The lower and upper jaw of the axolotl contain fine teeth. However these teeth are used for gripping, as opposed to chewing. Digestion usually takes two to three days to occur.

 

Handling

Try not to handle your axolotl unless you have to. Axolotl skin is very sensitive and soft, and even brief contact can be damaging if you're not careful. About the only time you should have to handle you axolotl is when you are moving it from one tank to another. If you suddenly find your finger inside an axolotl's mouth, wait patiently for it to let go. Do not fight the axolotl, or you may cause it harm. Their teeth are harmless and it is quite amusing to watch the axolotl wrestled then spit your finger out.

Size

Hatchlings are about 1 - 2 cm in length. Adults can get around 20 - 30 cm length and weigh over 300 grams. Mature females are rounder in the abdominal region, because they are filled with eggs. Their cloacas are smaller than the males. Males are slimmer, and their cloacal region is larger because there are jelly glands on both sides of the opening. Sexual maturity is reached anywhere from nine months to two years.

Sex

Males mature sooner than females. Accurate sexing is easily done with mature animals, not immature animals. Factor that influence growth rate: temperature, amount of food fed, and amount of toxins in water. A good estimate of life span in captivity is about fifteen years. There is no data on wild stock but the assumption is that it would be less. Reproductive capabilities slow down after five to seven years for females and eight to ten years for males.

Chemical Toxicity

Like fish, axolotls are prone to ammonia toxicity. This includes too much ammonium, nitrate or nitrite in the water system. Symptons of this include the attack of the skin of the external gills, cloudy eyes, and visible infection on the skin of the animal. Chlorine, chloramine, pH, heavy metals and TOC's can all be brought under control. However, ammonia, ammonium, nitrate, and nitrite can suddenly change levels in the axolotls housing and must be routinely monitored and brought under control. Also O2 levels can change suddenly and dramatically. If you suspect any health problems for your axolotl, immediately replace the water with clean water (dechlorinated, deammoninated and dechloraminated). Never use deionized water since they do not contain essential minerals that the axolotls need. It is a good idea to save some of the water, so that you may run a water test on it. Most aquarium stores will run an ammonia and pH test for you, free of charge.

Regeneration

Axolotls are well known for their ability to regenerate body parts. They are able to regenerate their gills, limbs, tail, damaged skin tissue, heart, liver, kidney tissue, parts of their peripheral nervous system, and parts of their central nervous system. Time of regeneration is a factor of age versus time. A two inch animal might regenerate an entire limb in a month, while an adult may never regenerate a lost limb but will regenerate quickly damaged skin tissue. Adults should regenerate the entire tail, skin, muscle and all, but it will take a few months.

AXOLOTLS GENETICS

As of 1990, there have been 44 mutant genes identified, affecting stages of development from oogenesis to pigmentation. For the keeper who is keeping an axolotl as a pet, as opposed to laboratory research, the different colors of the axolotl or its phenotype is usually of core interest.

Phenotypes Chromatosphores
Albino - Deficient pigmentation in the skin. Animal lacks melanosphores
Melanic - Extra or excess black pigmentation in the skin
Xanthic - Yellow pigmentation caused by hydrolysis of guanine.
Iridosphores - Produces shiny iridescence
Melanosphores - Produces the dark pigment
Xanthophores - Produces the yellow pigment.

 


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