BEARDED DRAGONS
Karen Guillen - M.A.R.K. meeting
April 2002
Introduction (this caresheet was written in Australia for Australian conditions)
May live up to 20 years in captivity - long term commitment.
Check licensing requirements - vary from state to state.
Pets must come from legal captive bred source.
Pets must not be released into the wild.
Large lizards - may grow up to 55cm.
TWO Important Keys - Observation and Replicate
Natural Conditions
If lizard won't eat, isn't defecating, does something unusual - don't
assume all is OK.
Behaviour
Very interesting social behaviour - head bobbing, arm waving, tail twitching,
hissing, gaping mouth, beard enlargement, colour change.
Males should not be kept together as can be aggressive.
Will stack on top of each other - most likely for heat conservation.
Will make eye contact with people, may respond to voice as well.
Keep similar sized animals together or smaller lizard may be bitten,
eaten or crushed.
Nutrition
Mainly insectivorous in the wild (90%) - but will eat certain flowers when available.
Food offered must be no more than bite-size/mouthful/length of head/ width of jaw.
Feed a variety of insects.
For variety also offer native (Australian) flowers - dandelion, seaside daisies and brachyscome and commercial dragon foods.
Infrequently offer hard-boiled egg, newborn mice and only to adults, puppy (not dog) food & never cat food or fish varieties.
Note that red meat contains little nutrition, mice are fatty and mealworms contain little nutrition and are fatty.
Provide supplements of calcium and vitamins - suggest feeding insects with high quality fish food flakes and adding a pinch of supplement powder every time new flakes are added (gut-loading).
Feed young dragons once or twice daily up to six months - offer 5-10 bite sized pieces each feed.
Feed dragons up to one year every other day - above amount.
Feed adult dragons two to three times a week - above amount.
Offer variety and keep food as natural as possible.
Ingestion of substrate can be lethal - if using small particle substrate do not feed lizard in the cage.
Handling
Be gentle and supportive. Don't tip lizard upside down.
Hygiene
Wash hands before and after handling. Remove faeces immediately.
Change water daily, more often if lizard defecates in water.
Housing
Size. The bigger the better. Should be tall rather than
long. 1 metre long by 1 metre high by 0.5 metre deep will comfortably
house a pair of adults.
Lid. Lid can be wood, screen or combination. Make sure
the lid is secure.
Ventilation. Provide vents in the top of the lower ¼
of the cage. If lid is mainly wood another lot of vents should also
be in the top ¼ of the cage, opposite and adjacent to lower vents.
Furniture. A number of secure climbing branches or logs
are necessary. Make sure at least one branch/log is close to the bask
light.
Substrate. Kitty litter(recycled paper type) large pebbles
and leaves, indoor/outdoor carpet or mats, newsprint, paper towels -
sand not advised as it dries slowly and may be ingested.
Hides. Dragons tend to not be "hiders" as much
as other lizards but make sure the option is available. You can arrange
climbing logs so lizard can hide underneath them.
Heating
Most important aspect of husbandry. Incorrect heat can kill.
Keep dragons in a 20C to 35C temperature range. Directly under bask light will be hotter.
Need correct heat to stimulate feeding response and to digest food.
Monitor heat at all times - if using an adhesive strip thermometer at bask site level attach horizontally to be accurate.
Minimum/Maximum probe thermometers best.
Heat source can be on top of lid if screened, or fixed to lid if wooden.
Must have a warm to cool gradient (range) through the cage of at least 10C.
Bottom of cage will be cool, the top warm, and under light the warmest spot.
Lizard will move around as it wants more or less heat to thermoregulate.
Cool end about 20C, warm end 30'sC, under bask light high 30'sC to mid 40'sC.
If heat source is too low and food is ingested the food will rot in stomach and can kill lizard.
Daytime heat. Dragons are baskers - their main heat source must come from above and be bright - like the sun (stimulates activity). Heat mats, heat rocks, ceramic lamps and coloured bulbs can be used for supplementary heating, not primary heat. NEVER let sun touch the cage.
Provide heat day and night unless natural temperatures are sufficient or lizard is hibernating.
Nighttime heat - an economical source is a coloured bulb - red or blue. Colour neck of bulb if necessary so white light is not emitted at night. Can also use heatmats, ceramic bulbs etc.
Eastern/Common Bearded Dragon - low 30'sC is sufficient top cage temperature & Central Bearded Dragon - mid 30'sC is sufficient top cage temperature (under bask light is hotter).
Recommend a heatmat at bottom of cage (partial floor area only) for a warm low section option.
Light
3 types/reasons - heat, light & UV. Lights can be provided on top of lid if screened, or fixed to lid if wooden.
Heat - see above
Light - day/night cycle needs to be simulated. As a guide spring & autumn 10 hours,
summer 12 hours, winter 8 hours light. The light is provided by the UV light and the heat light.
UV - a must with dragons even if supplements are provided. UV deficiency will result in bone deformations - crooked jaws and tails in particular. Provide UV with suitable UV tube.
Economical option - double fitting holding a Black light (Insectocuter) tube & normal fluoro tube.
Suggest putting lizard in sun for periods as well, making sure lizard can't escape nor be attacked. Make sure lizard does not overheat when in sun - provide a shade option.
Sloughing
Dragons slough in bits and pieces and at irregular periods. Make sure toes and tail tips in particular slough properly. If scale layers build up toes or tail tip may die and fall off.
Soak body part in warm water to loosen remaining skin. Never force skin off.
 Hibernation
Only indoor hibernation is discussed here.
To hibernate a dragon safely outdoors is harder to do.
Hibernation is mainly temperature dependent.
Length of day does have some influence so if possible, leave cage in
good light. (Sun must never touch cage).
Recommend that dragons not be hibernated until 3 years old as body reserves
are not sufficient.
Do not hibernate lizard if sick or underweight.
Reduce heat gradually. Provide clean straw or leaf litter.
Do not feed lizard once heat is being reduced - food won't be digested
- food will rot in stomach and can cause death.
Lizard will eventually bury itself. Turn heat off.
Leave cage in a cool room where temps remain around 10C.
If temps are too high lizard will not hibernate properly & continue
metabolising, causing weight loss & possible death.
If temps too low body parts may freeze - causing frostbite, death of
body part, and even the death of the dragon.
When lizard starts to become active in spring, turn heat on.
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