ACT Herpetological Association Caresheet for
Blue-tongued Lizards
Common or Eastern Blue-tongue (Tiliqua scincoides)
Blotched Blue-tongue (Tiliqua nigrolutea)
INTRODUCTION
The Common or Eastern Blue-tongued Lizard and the Blotched Blue-Tongued Lizard are found in various parts of Australia. It is illegal to take these lizards or any other type of reptile from the wild. Captive-bred reptiles should not be released in the wild. Reptiles have very specific needs. They are cold-blooded and rely on the environment for warmth. The owner of a Blue-tongued Lizard needs to understand the requirements for keeping a healthy happy lizard. These species of Blue-tongued Lizards are often sold when very small, about 10cm long, but it is important to know that they may grow to a length of 45cm or more. As the lizard grows, depending on the size of its initial cage it may need a bigger home. Plan to have this animal with you a long time, this lizard may live 20 years or so. It is important to remember that lizards are very quiet animals and even captive bred pets will suffer stress with too much or rough handling, loud noises, vibrations and dogs or cats having inappropriate access. Seek advice quickly if it becomes ill. If the basics of lizard care as listed below are followed illness should be minimal.
LIGHTING
Lights are used for heating, lighting and as a UV source. Heat will be discussed later. Light - the lizard needs to have a day/night cycle. Placing the aquarium near a window for normal light is good or if the aquarium is in a dark position, a white incandescent light can be used. This can be the same light as is used for basking, however turn the white light off at night and use another heat source - e.g. a red or blue light so the lizard can sleep. UV - lizards must have UVA and UVB light in correct ratios to help in the production of vitamin D which is essential for healthy growth. A special UV light needs to be provided. The UV light must be directly on the lizard - not through plastic or glass. UV lights need to be replaced every 6 to 12 months depending on type used. Turn off at night. A plant light is not suitable, nor is light through a window. As sunlight is the best UV source - especially for juveniles - take the lizard outside for at least 15 minutes daily if possible. Remember to watch the lizard - it can disappear quickly or other animals may attack it. Have lights on 8 hours daily in the colder months and 12 hours daily in the warmer months.
HOUSING
Inside An aquarium is a good home as it is easy to clean and good for observation. A 4 foot aquarium is suitable. Cover the floor with a substrate, but be careful with any substrate used as it may be accidentally eaten and cause serious problems. Provide places to hide, a pile of leaves, hollow log, bark or half a terra-cotta pot. Lizards must be able to hide or they will be stressed. Provide a water dish at the "cool" end (see heating). If necessary weight the dish so if the lizard climbs over the dish it won’t tip. There needs to be plenty of ventilation - too much humidity will cause health problems - the lizard’s home should be dry.
Outside When the lizard is 3 years old it can live outside. Remember that lizards can walk quite a distance in a short time. You will need an area fenced with material other than wire for your lizard - the lizard can damage it’s snout by pushing at the wire. The fencing will need to be about 30cm into the ground - lizards can dig. Provide plants and ground cover for the lizard to hide in or get shade. A dry place needs to be provided as well - curved driftwood, piles of branches and hollow logs are good - so if it rains for days the lizard can be dry. Position the enclosure to receive plenty of sunlight and make sure it is totally predator proof. An outdoor enclosure is an ideal place to keep these locally occurring lizards, and can also be used as a place for a native garden. If the two are combined they provide an attractive aspect to your garden.
HANDLING
Handle your lizard gently but firmly supporting both front and back legs. Lizards don’t like to be tipped upside down. When picking the lizard up don’t drag it backwards as you can damage its scales. Grabbing the lizard by the tail may cause it to break off - the tail is a very important fat reserve. Wash hands before and after handling your lizard - this is to protect both you and your lizard’s health.
HYGIENE
Uneaten food, faeces and shed skins should be removed daily. Change water daily - rinse dish with water.
HEATING
The lizard can not function without correct temperatures being provided. The general temperature range for keeping these lizards is 20 - 30°C. Provide a temperature gradient of at least 5°C (more is better) with a "hot" and a "cool" end of the enclosure. At the hot end, provide a suitable heat source with the temperature under the heat, at the level at which the lizard basks, being 27 – 30°C. Using a higher level (log or rock pile that cannot collapse) and allowing the animal to get closer to the heat source (with care) can provide a hotter area within the "hot" end. Don’t let the temperature of the hotter area get above 34°C. Blue or red incandescent lights can be used - the lights are left on at night providing heat but allowing the lizard to sleep - the lizard needs to have a day/night cycle. The temperature will drop overnight - this is OK and natural. Make sure that the heat source used provides heat that spreads - no "hot spots" or the lizard can be burnt. Constant temperatures under 20°C mean that the lizard cannot feed properly - either it won’t eat or if it does eat the food can’t be digested. The food will rot in the stomach. A stick-on thermometer should be inside at the level where the lizard basks and at the cool end so you know that the temperatures are correct. You will need to use a different wattage as the weather changes. Make sure the heat light is out of the lizard’s reach. Never have direct sun on the aquarium - it will get too hot. Do not splash water on the heat light - an explosion can cause burns to both you and the lizard.
SLOUGHING/SHEDDING
Lizards regularly shed their skin, especially as they are growing. The skin will start to look dull and go a darker colour, then it will look opaque/milky. Do not handle the lizard at the opaque/milky stage - the new skin underneath can be damaged. Always have something abrasive in the cage for the lizard to rub against - rough bark or a rough rock, never sandpaper. Make sure all skin comes off especially around fingers and toes - soak these parts in warm water for 15 minutes if it hasn’t come off after 7 to 10 days (not before as damage can be done). You should then be able to gently pull the skin off - never force the skin. If the lizard has not shed most of it’s skin or none at all after
10 to 12 days - seek advice.
FEEDING
It is easy to overfeed your lizard. Feed young lizards daily (up to 6 months) and older lizards 3 times a week. Offer about 5 bite size pieces per animal at every feeding. Never give food that is still frozen to the lizard. Variety is important - so feed non-baited snails and various chopped foods - hard boiled eggs, green grapes, apples, strawberries, other soft fruits and soft vegetables. Bananas should only be a treat, not a big part of the diet. Red meat must be lean (no mince) and never more than 10% of the diet as serious health disorders can result. Dog food can be given, preferably puppy food and constituting no more than 10% of the diet. Never give any type of cat food or any foods with fish. Fresh food of course is best. Make sure the lizard has some firm foods for teeth care. Remove uneaten food after an hour. Calcium and vitamin supplements should not be needed with correct diet and provision of sufficient UV light. Remember the lizard must be warm (air temperature minimum around 24°C) for it to be able to both eat and digest food.
HIBERNATION
Only healthy lizards in good condition should hibernate and it is recommended that lizards be about 3 years old before being allowed to hibernate. The lizard can be allowed to hibernate inside or outside. Do not feed within a month of hibernation time (i.e. stop feeding at the end of March for the Canberra area) as undigested food can rot and kill the lizard. Outside. If hibernating outside, the enclosure must be suitable (if not, bring inside mid autumn) - dry spots with plenty of ground cover, plants, a pile of logs and suitable soil for digging so the lizard has a choice. Always have fresh water available. Do not wake the lizard during hibernation or fat reserves will be used up. It must not be exposed to frost. Make sure no predators (e.g. rats, dog, cats) can get to the lizard during hibernation. Inside. Put the lizard in an aquarium with a deep layer of leaf litter and with all heating and lighting turned off. The lizard must be at about 10°C to hibernate safely (but not below 7°C as frostbite can occur). Leave the aquarium in a cool spot near a window where there is natural light as lizards are sensitive to length of daylight - this indicates to them how long they should hibernate. Always have fresh water available. Do not wake the lizard while it is hibernating.
This care sheet was prepared by Karen Guillen and
Ben Kropp of the ACT Herpetological Association Inc. (ACTHA).
Updated January 2005.
FURTHER INFORMATION ON BLUE-TONGUES
Karen Guillen - Ph (02) 6299 2259
Peter Child – Ph (02) 6231 2894
Ben Kropp – Ph (02) 6254 7281
TO JOIN ACTHA
ACT Herpetological Association Inc. (ACTHA)
Address: PO Box 110 Jamison ACT 2614
Please note:
Laws governing the keeping/dealing in animals vary between States and Territories. In the ACT, animals must be kept in accordance with the ACT Nature Conservation Act 1980. For more information regarding licensing requirements in the ACT please contact the Licensing Officer, Environment ACT on
Ph. 6207 6376 The following information is only a guide. For more details on these laws please refer to the relevant authority in your State or Territory.
Feeding Blue-tongues
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