Care Sheet
Children's Pythons (Liasis childreni)

General Info:

There are a number of species and subspecies in the Children's Pythons family. These are:
Liasis childreni Liasis maculosus Liasis perthensis Liasis stimsoni	- - - -	Children's Python Spotted Python Ant-hill Python Stimson's Python

The difference between these small pythons are mainly to do with their locality and their colouration / pattern or lack thereof. Raymond Hoser in many of is papers discusses these difference, so I won't discuss them.

Children's Pythons are one of the smallest pythons in the world and make an excellent beginners python as they are extremely hardy. These snakes are very easy to keep and breed in captivity. Most adults are very placcid and easy to handle, however occassionally one will be of snappy disposition. Quite often juveniles are prone to bite first and think later. Children's Pythons will quite happily share a cage with other Children's Pythons and shown no cannibalistic tendencies.

Children's Pythons are a moderate to heavily built snake of variable colour. Typically it is a light brown colour, being still lighter on the lower sides with an irregular pattern of dark brown blotches along the back and sides. These blotches are often roughly arranged in transverse series to give the impression of irregular crossbands. The head is light brown often with small darker flecks or blotches. A dark streak may pass through each eye.

Children's Pythons grow to approximately 85 cm (34 inches) in length but there have been reports of Children's Pythons growing to nearly 2 metres (72 inches).

Cage:
Being a small snake, Children's Pythons can happily be kept in a relatively small cage. An enclosure measuring 60cm x 45cm x 45cm ( 24 x 18 x 18 inches) is probably more than adequate for a Children's Python. They do like to climb, so including a few branches is suggested. This also allows the python to pick and choose its basking position. The branches will be used extensively, especially at night. Children's Pythons are not particularly nocturnal. They are often seen roaming the cage during the day, but they are especially active at night.

A water bowl must be provided, but it need not be huge, just enough for the snake to bathe if it wants. It should be changed regularly. A hidebox is essential not just for Children's Pythons but for all snakes. They will spend the bulk of the day curled up in their hide box, particularly when they are digesting a meal. At other times they will happily roam the cage, bask under a light or wrap themself in a branch and sleep. The hide box can be made out of almost anything - clay pot, cardboard shoe box, hollow log, etc. Anything that is nice and snug for the python.

The substrate can be anything from pebbles, rocks, bark, paper to wood shavings.

Food:
As adults, Children's Pythons will happily eat mice. Being a rather smaller snake, rats are generally too big, but a small rat of about the size of a mouse will happily be taken. If no live food is available they will generally take thawed frozen mice. It is suggested that you use long tongs as they will strike their prey rapidly with the mouth open. A finger can be mistaken sometimes. If this happens, be patient and the python will give you a sheepish look and let go in a minute or two. Their teeth are very small so a bite will not generally draw blood.

Hatchlings are very small, measuring between 25 - 30cm (10 - 12 inches). Hatchlings will not naturally eat baby mice (pinkies) and so they can be fairly difficult to get started on eating baby mice. In the wild they would normally catch small lizards or geckos. It may be necessary to force feed them a couple of times, or offer them a lizard scented pinky. A very small fish can sometimes be used when force feeding as if is the right shape as a lizard and will slide down more easily than a pinky. The baby pythons don't seem to mind too much.

Temperature:
Children's Pythons generally prefer a temperature of between 28 and 32.0 degrees Celsius and above 22 degrees Celcius for most of the year. The night time temperature can drop a few degrees.

Breeding:

Children's Pythons are generally easy to breed. Both the male and female Children's Python should go through a hybernation / cooling cycle, that is, during the Winter months the temperature should be set as above. This will prime her body for the onset of Spring and the breeding season. Ovulation is marked by a mid-body swelling lasting 12 hours. It is highly unlikely that you will see this. With the beginning of Spring the male Children's Python should be introduced to the female. Hopefully the two Children's Pythons will mate during the next couple of days/weeks. About three weeks after mating the female will shed and after another three weeks the female will lay her eggs (late spring). The female will lay between 5-15 eggs, and possibly more as she get older. Some of the eggs may be slugs (infertile), and will be smaller and a yellowish mustard colour. (These can be seen at bottom of the picture on the right. 13 eggs were laid, 5 of which were slugs.) The eggs normally measure about 4 - 5.5cm x 2 - 2.3cm. Incubation can be performed by the mother, or artificially by putting the eggs in an incubator. The eggs should be placed in a sealed container with a layer of slightly damp vermiculite, as the hatching median. During incubation, the eggs should be kept between 29.5 and 32.0 degrees Celsius. The eggs should be inspected daily and the vermiculite should be given a fine spray of water. If any of the eggs show signs of being off (rotting or moldy), they should be removed immediately.

N.B. Do not be distressed if your female Children's Python does not eat while she is gravid or while she is incubating the eggs. This is normal. After the eggs have been removed or after the eggs have hatched (depending on whether you allow her to incubate the eggs), the female should be very hungry in a couple of days, and should be fed extra to bring her weight back up to normal. Ideally, the female should breed every other year. Breeding her every year will be stressful and decrease her life expectency.

Monaro Amphibian & Reptile Keepers (MARK)
Meeting Venue: BURNS CLUB
8 Kett St., Kambah ACT
2nd Wednesday of each month at 7:30pm

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