ACT Herpetological Association Caresheet for
Eastern (Common) Long-necked Turtle (Chelodina longicollis)

This species of turtle is best kept by an experienced reptile keeper.

INTRODUCTION
The Eastern or Common Long-necked Turtle is commonly found in various parts of Australia. It is illegal to take this turtle or any other type of reptile from the wild. Captive bred reptiles should not be released in the wild. Reptiles have very specific needs. They are cold-blooded and rely on the environment for warmth. The owner of a Long-necked Turtle needs to understand the requirements for keeping a healthy happy turtle.
Long-necked Turtles are often sold when very small, about 4cm long but it is important to know that this species of turtle will grow to a shell length of 20 - 30cm. As the turtle grows, depending on the size of aquarium you have, it may need a bigger home. Plan to have this animal with you a long time, this turtle may live 40 years or so. It is also important to remember that turtles are very quiet animals and even captive bred pets will suffer stress with too much or rough hanling, loud noises, vibrations and dogs and cats having inappropriate access. Handle your turtle gently but firmly - remember he may try to kick himself out of your hands. Don’t ever drill a hole in the shell to tether the turtle - this is cruel as the shell is living bone. Wash hands before and after handling - this is to protect both you and your turtle’s health. Seek advice quickly if your turtle becomes ill. If the basics of turtle care as listed below are followed illness should be minimal.

HOUSING - Inside
The aquarium needs to be a suitable length - a 4 foot aquarium will suit the turtle till it is old enough to go outside. You may cover the bottom with a substrate but be careful with any substrate used as it may be accidentally eaten and cause serious problems. Large sized coral rubble is suitable and will also help buffer the pH level. The water depth must be more than the width of the turtle’s shell - if it tips over on its back and can’t right itself it will drown. Provide a totally dry basking area for the turtle - Long-necked Turtles need be able to dry out completely. The basking area may be a rock but should not be abrasive, nor should it be too smooth as the turtle needs to get on and off easily. There needs to be plenty of ventilation - too much humidity will cause health problems.

HOUSING - Outside
When the turtle is 3 years old it is better for it to live outside. Remember that turtles can walk quite a distance in a short time. You will need an area fenced with material other than wire for your turtle - the turtle can damage it’s snout by pushing at the wire. The fencing will need to be about 30cm into the ground - turtles can dig. A non-abrasive pond of suitable depth that the turtle can easily get in and out of needs to be in the enclosure. Also provide plants and ground cover for the turtle to hide in or get shade. A dry place needs to be provided as well - curved driftwood is good - so if it rains for days the turtle can be dry if it wants. Make sure the enclosure is positioned to receive plenty of sunlight and that it is totally predator proof.

WATER QUALITY (pH & Hardness)

pH	7.4 - 8.0
Hardness 300 parts per million	1 teaspoon salt mix per 10 litres
Temperature	18 – 21°C

Buy a pH test kit and test water weekly. Buffer water as necessary. A filtration system is recommended. The filter must be powerful enough to break surface water tension to release bad gases. Releasing bad gases will help you to keep the desired pH levels. Rinse filter gently when the water flow slows - don’t totally clean the filter or good bacteria will be removed. Removing faeces will help water quality. Do a 25% water change every week. A calcium block and/or piece of coral can be added to the water to help maintain pH and increase hardness, as soft acidic water can damage the turtle’s shell. A prepared freshwater salt mix (as used for marine fish tanks) should be added to the water when setting up the aquarium and at water changes. Bad water quality increases the likelihood of health problems so make sure you take care with the water your turtle is living in.

HEATING
Turtles can not function without correct temperatures being provided. Different temperature ranges are required for the water and for the air.
Water - Constant temperatures under 18C mean that the turtle can’t feed properly - either it won’t eat or if it does eat the food can’t be digested. The food will rot in the stomach. For turtles over 1 year old the water should be kept at 18 – 21C with a good quality water heater. Keep hatchlings up to 1 year at 21C. It doesn’t matter if the water drops or rises a degree or two now and then. A strip thermometer on the outside of the glass within the water level is a good double check on the water temperature. The heater should have a guard on it so the turtle can’t sit on it and get burnt.
Air - One end of the aquarium should be for basking. Never have direct sun on the aquarium - it will get too hot. A suitable heat light may be provided (juveniles may not tend to bask much) with the temperature under the light 25 – 28C. The light needs to provide heat that spreads (no “hot spots”) and don’t splash a heat light or it will explode - both of these situations can cause burns. The light should be out of the turtle’s reach and turned off at night.

LIGHTING
Lighting is used for heat, light and as a UV source. Heat was discussed earlier. Light - the turtle must have a day/night cycle. Placing the aquarium near a window for normal light is a good method or if the aquarium is in a dark position a white incandescent light can be used. This can be the same light as is used for basking. Turn off at night. UV - turtles must have UVA and UVB light in correct ratios to help in the production of vitamin D which is essential for healthy growth. A special UV light needs to be provided. The UV light must be directly on the turtle - not through plastic or glass. UV lights need to be replaced every 6 to 12 months depending on type used. Turn off at night. A plant light is not suitable, nor is light through a window. As sunlight is the best UV source - especially for juveniles - take the turtle outside for at least 15 minutes daily if possible. Remember to watch the turtle - it can disappear quickly or it may be attacked by other animals. Have lights on 8 hours daily in the colder months and 12 hours daily in the warmer months.

FEEDING
It is easy to overfeed your turtle as these turtles will always look & act as if they are starving. If you overfeed your turtle the body of the turtle will grow too fast for the shell to keep up with. Deformities in the shell will result and the shell won’t be as strong as it should be. A guide to feeding – hatchlings up to 6 months 5 bite size pieces per animal daily, over 6 months 3 times per week - 5 bite size pieces per animal at each feed. The turtle must eat in the water so put the food in the water. Variety is important. Long-necked Turtles are totally carnivorous. Never give food that is still frozen to the turtle. Provide a varied diet – whitebait & prawns (soaked for an hour to remove salt), live fish (bite size), blackworms, garden worms, crickets, flies, moths and other insects to the diet. Commercial foods are available but must be varied with other foods (mentioned above). Red meat has very little nutritional value & mince should never be offered - it is too fatty. Mealworms & bloodworms are of little nutritional value. Remove uneaten food after an hour. Give calcium and vitamin supplements weekly. Commercial pre-mixed products are available. Remember the turtle must be warm (water temperature at a minimum of 18C) for it to be able to both eat and digest food.

GENERAL HEALTH
Don’t clean algae off the shell as this may damage the shell and cause infections. If your turtle gets an infection on its skin or shell it needs to be treated with a suitable medication. Follow instructions. Most of these medications are applied by removing the turtle from the water, gently dabbing the infected area with a cotton wool bud and allow to dry at least 20 minutes. Do this daily until condition starts to clear. Signs of infection to watch for are a white fluffy growth especially around the claws, eyes and tail or white to grey patches appearing on the shell which can go red if the condition continues. Do not confuse infections with sloughing (the natural shedding of the skin and shell). Here the skin will peel off in a clear to grey film and the shell scutes (sections) will peel. Do not attempt to peel the skin or shell yourself - this can cause damage.

HIBERNATION
Only healthy turtles in good condition should hibernate and it is recommended that turtles be about 3 years old (shell length 8-12 cm).
The turtle can be allowed to hibernate inside or outside. Don’t feed within a month of hibernation time (i.e. stop feeding at end of March for the Canberra area) as food may not be digested and will rot in the stomach. Do not wake the turtle while it is hibernating, as it will use up fat reserves.
Outside. If hibernating outside the enclosure must be suitable (if not, bring inside) - plenty of ground cover, plants, and suitable soil for digging and a pond at least 60cm deep, with plants and a layer of mud - the turtle will choose where to hibernate. The turtle must not be exposed to frost and must be able to stay dry if it wishes. Most turtles will choose to hibernate in the water. Make sure no predators (e.g. rats, dogs, cats) can get to the turtle during hibernation.
Inside. If your turtle lives in an aquarium and is an indoor pet there is no need for it to hibernate. If your turtle is an outdoor pet and your enclosure is not suitable for hibernation you can put the turtle in an aquarium without water in a cool spot indoors near a window for natural light (your turtle will know how long to hibernate by the length of daylight). The turtle must be around 10C (but not below 7C as frostbite can occur) to hibernate safely. Cover the turtle in a deep layer of leaf litter with all heating and lighting turned off.

This care sheet was prepared by Karen Guillen, Scott Thomson & David Manby of the ACT Herpetological Association Inc.

Updated January 2005.

FURTHER INFORMATION ON TURTLES

Karen Guillen - Ph (02) 6299 2259
Peter Child – Ph (02) 6231 2894

OR TO JOIN ACTHA

Contact the ACT Herpetological Association Inc. (ACTHA)
Address: PO Box 110 Jamison ACT 2614
Ph (02) 6241 4065

Please note:

Laws governing the keeping/dealing in animals vary between States and Territories. In the ACT, animals must be kept in accordance with the ACT Nature Conservation Act 1980. For more information regarding licensing requirements in the ACT please contact the Licensing Officer, Environment ACT on Ph. 6207 6376 The following information is only a guide. For more details on these laws please refer to the relevant authority in your State or Territory.

Monaro Amphibian & Reptile Keepers (MARK)
Meeting Venue: BURNS CLUB
8 Kett St., Kambah ACT
2nd Wednesday of each month at 7:30pm

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