Reptile and Frog Keeping in the ACT for First-time Owners
By Peter Child
M.A.R.K. Meeting 13 August 2003
This flyer is an introduction to reptile and frog keeping for those people who have never kept either before.
Due to the differing laws from state to state this information is only relevant to the ACT at the time of writing in 2003.
Definitions: People who study reptiles or frogs are called herpetologists, the subject is herpetology, and the animals are herptiles.
Availability: Almost all reptiles and frogs breed during the warmer seasons so they are widely available from December through April. Out side of that they are much harder to get.
The Law and Licensing: Australian or not? All reptiles and amphibians kept in Australia are native. It is illegal to import or keep any exotic species of reptile or amphibian. (Zoos are an obvious exception).
Licenses: All native Australian animals are protected. It is illegal to remove any animal from the wild unless issued with a special permit. It is also illegal to release captive-bred pets into the wild.
Reptiles and frogs kept as pets are captive bred. This means they come from generations of breeding in captivity since the first specimens were collected from the wild.
Captive-bred animals are far more adapted to living in captivity; they generally don't stress over being housed and are used to human contact.
Reptile Licenses: All reptiles require a license to be kept unless they are listed as exempt from licencing. The list on the other side of this sheet names the 4 species of exempt reptiles. Anyone can own an exempt reptile as long as you have a proof of purchase (a receipt or letter from the breeder) to prove it was not removed from the wild.
At this time any reptile that is not exempt will require a licence which for first time reptile owners can take up to 2 years to achieve.
Frog Licenses: At this time all frogs require a license to be kept in the ACT. The license is category A and can be acquired by any first time keeper who can prove an understanding and ability to achieve the correct care.
Licence fees in the ACT are very well priced with the average cost under $25 for 5 years.
For more information on licencing or application forms, contact Canberra Exotics on (02) 62312894 or directly to Environment ACT Compliance and Quarantine services on (02) 62076376.
General Husbandry: When keeping any reptile or frog there are several considerations and requirements that are the same regardless of the species or type. Following is a basic rundown on what to expect.
Cost: People often look at the cost of the animals they are seeking but it is only the beginning. The success of keeping these animals is totally dependant on how they are set up, so be prepared to spend anywhere from $300 upwards, for even the most basic set up.
The Enclosure: Understand and research your desired animals well as the smallest babies can grow into the biggest monsters. Turtles the size of a 10cent piece may as big as a dinner plate. 1cm baby green tree frogs can reach the size of a clenched fist. All of the currently exempt lizards reach approximately 60 cm from tip to tip. Keep in mind that most reptiles need a lot of floor space so an aquarium that has a large volume is only as good as the size of its base. Also be sure to research whether your chosen animal likes to climb.
Heating: Reptiles and frogs are all cold blooded which means they rely totally on external heat sources to maintain their desired body temperature. The single most important thing when dealing with any cold-blooded animal is regulating the temperature correctly.
This can mean the difference between life and death. Even though the exempt reptiles available in Canberra are native to the region when you bring them inside everything changes. You will need to consider heating needs all year round and the appropriate heat source for your animal and situation. Be sure to get the right advice. Hibernation in winter can also be considered if you have the appropriate setup. It also depends on the age and species of herp being kept.
Lighting: ALL reptiles and frogs need UV light to synthesise vitamin D3, which is needed for calcium absorption. The UV source can be the sun or special lights. Direct sunlight can not be used on an indoor enclosure as it will overheat and the herp will be cooked. Glass and plastics filter out the beneficial UVB light waves so light through a window is not enough. Infrequent exposure to the sun is not enough so it is essential to include a special Ultraviolet fluorescent light tube made for reptiles and frogs. The wavelength from the light is short so animals must be able to get within 40cm of the light. Make sure there is no glass or plastic between the animal and the UV light.
Plant and aquarium lights are not suitable.
All animals need a normal day /night cycle so be sure to have the light on during the day and switch it off at night. Light bulbs can also be used but unless they also emit UV (be careful as some light manufacturers falsely claim UV production) you will still need the fluorescent tube. At night use red or blue coloured lights for heat. The light used at night must be coloured so as not to disturb normal sleep patterns.
Humidity: Fresh air and venting is important because a majority of reptiles cannot tolerate a lot of humidity. Even tree frogs don't do well in tanks that have stale or overly saturated humidity levels.
This can particularly be a real problem when using all glass tanks.
Feeding: Feeding amounts and food types vary but almost all reptiles and amphibians require some type of live food in the form of live insects or mice/rats. Do you have the stomach for it?
EXEMPT REPTILES FOR THE BEGINNER:
# Eastern Long-necked Turtles:
Availability: Infrequent as they are difficult to breed.
Degree of care: High maintenance because enclosure is mostly water, very similar to keeping tropical fish. Adult size: about the size of a dinner plate.
Life span: Approx. 100 years.
Food: Carnivorous-small insects, "turtle dinners", earthworms, fish, prawns. Never red meat of any kind.
Pete's Opinion: Turtles are the most sort after reptile in Australia but they are also the most difficult to keep. It is predicted 90% of turtles sold die because their metabolism is so slow it takes a long time to know something is wrong.
# Eastern Blue-tongue Lizard:
Availability: Abundant at the right time of year.
Degree of care: Very hardy and easy to maintain.
Adult size: about 60cm tip to tip.
Life span: Approx. 20 years.
Food: Omnivorous-mainly snails, some fruit and veggies and occasionally tinned puppy food.
Pete's Opinion: These have to be one of the best pets all round. They are tough for a lizard and can cope with a lot of handling.
# Eastern Bearded Dragon:
Availability: Becoming more available.
Degree of care: Not too difficult but a lot more sensitive than the "bluey" when young. Very hardy as adults.
Adult size: about 60cm from tip to tip.
Life span: Approx. 10-15 years.
Food: Omnivorous as adults-mostly insects, some fruit and veggies. Babies will only eat live insects.
Pete's Opinion: Eastern Bearded Dragons are not as popular or as easy to keep as Central Bearded Dragons. They have been very popular this year though due to the change in laws. Provide a log for sleeping and basking to help them feel secure and display better.
# Shingle-back Lizard:
Availability: Very difficult to get due to small litters.
Degree of care: similar to the blue-tongue, very easy to maintain but can't tolerate any humidity.
Adult size: about 60cm.
Life span: Approx. 20 years.
Food: Omnivorous-mainly snails, wild flowers, fruit and veggies.
Pete's Opinion: These are definitely the most bizarre looking of the 4 choices. If you are lucky enough to find one they are a great pet. They do mate for life though so don't separate adult pairs.
LICENSED FROGS FOR THE BEGINNER:
# Tree Frogs:
All frogs require a license but are still available to first time owners. Following is a very general idea of what to expect.
Availability: some species easier to acquire than others.
Maintenance: High maintenance. Tank must be kept clean.
Adult size: From 3cm Dwarfs Frogs to 11cm Green Tree Frogs.
Life span: 3 years for smaller species to 20 years for the larger.
Food: Insectivorous-will only eat live insects of an appropriate size (bite-size or width of head).
Pete's Opinion: Frogs are a little harder to maintain and don't display as well as reptiles but they have their charm.
This is just a very rough guide for those interested in getting started with herpetology. For a much more in-depth discussion, care sheet, quote on accessories or general chat please feel free to call Peter on 62312894 or email info@canberraexotics.com.au
|
