THE WEATHER (Temperate Zones) AND HERPS


By Karen Guillen - 09 October 2002


Sudden temperature changes - don't take your herp out of its warm indoor cage and put it in an outside cage when temperatures outside are low.

Temperatures below 7ºC can cause frostbite even in locally occurring species. In the wild herps have a wide range of places to hibernate and know what is appropriate for them - where they will not get wet or exposed to frost.

  1. If you are putting your herp outdoors during the day in spring and autumn bring it in at night if temperatures will drop below 7ºC. It is not recommended to put your herp outside at all in winter unless it is only for a short time during the warmest part of the day.
  2. If you are hibernating your herps indoors make sure you have a thermometer with an alarm on it to alert you if temperature drops below 7ºC.
  3. If you are hibernating your herps outdoors make sure the enclosure has appropriate substrate and places for hibernation and will not be exposed to rain or frost.

Warm winter days and herps hibernating outdoors - make sure that if your herp comes out on a warm day that it puts itself away before night. If the herp is still out bring it indoors and set it up to hibernate inside.

Correct temperature for hibernation indoors is around 10ºC - make sure the temperature does not go above 13ºC or below 7ºC. If the herp is too warm it will not hibernate completely and use up too many fat reserves, possibly causing death, or at the least, emaciation.

Always have water available for hibernating herps.

Feed herps less in winter. If you are not hibernating herps over winter reduce their food intake as they will be less active, simply because they know it is winter. A lot of herps will eat less by choice. Some may not eat at all which is OK for a month or two as long as the herp is healthy and is an adult. If you are concerned your herp is losing weight and should be eating, increase the heat.

Don't hibernate a herp that is under 3 years of age, sick or underweight.

Herps are sensitive to light (length of day) as well as temperature. Even though you are providing heat for your herp, it may stop eating. If your herp needs to eat, make sure the cage is well lit during the day and lengthen the light period as well as increasing heat.

Make sure all food is digested before hibernation - don't offer food within a month of hibernation. If the herp is kept outdoors it may refuse to eat of its own accord as the temperatures drop. If the herp is kept indoors, stop feeding it a month before you turn off light and heat sources.

Consider the heat and light needs of the species being kept. Captive-bred pets have the same needs as in the wild. You will need to provide more heat, especially in winter, for species that don't occur locally such as Green pythons, White-lipped tree frogs, Frilled lizards or Krefft's River turtles.

 


Monaro Amphibian & Reptile Keepers (MARK)
Meeting Venue: BURNS CLUB
8 Kett St., Kambah ACT
2nd Wednesday of each month at 7:30pm

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